I've just been listening to the Business of Fashion podcast with Chanel executives Leena Nair, CEO, and Creative Director Mathieu Blazy. Speaking about the importance of preserving human creation and relationships in an era of AI, their message has really struck a chord.
If, as they were saying, human creation and human touchpoints are one of the key differentiators between luxury fashion and mass production then small, independent fashion labels like Urban Silk should be raising our arms in celebration.
Though Chanel has the advantage of artisanal craftspeople working across their product range, every designer can appreciate the time and skill involved in developing a garment from scratch - the cutting and sewing, fitting and adjusting. And that's just to get the basic garment shape before the details and finishes are perfected, and production can begin.
These are the skills that set small scale fashion designers apart from the mass manufacturers - those that repeat and re-cut styles over and over, changing maybe the colour or print and swapping out the labels from company to company. Cut, sell, repeat.
With some designs, it's just not that simple. Some designs require trial and error to perfect and innovate, to bring something different to the fashion marketplace. Take the Urban Silk hood for example.
So as not to be visible around the neckline, the hood seams are not internal seams as is typical in garment construction, but external. Look at the back neckline (see image below) or lift the cowl front, you would see the seam is visible. Though the drape of both cowl and hood means the seam will always be hidden, the fact that it is an external seam means the seam itself is a considered design feature.
The standard overlocked seam, where the raw edges of fabric are bound with overlocked stitches to prevent fraying, is fine when the construction is concealed within the garment. It would however, lessen the appearance of the garment and the integrity of the design if used on the right side.
Instead, French seams have been used to join the hood to the bodies of the tops, tunic and dress in the Urban Silk range. French seams encase the raw edges of fabric to give a clean, neat finish. This type of seam requires more fabric than standard overlocked seams and takes more time to execute.
Similarly, the seam along the centre-back of the hood itself has been considered in the same way - how does the visible construction communicate the Urban Silk design principles and where it sits in the marketplace? Again, the French seam comes into play with its clean, sleek line, barely noticeable except to the discerning eye.
Considered design and an elevated finish. Ok, so it's not haute couture but it's a cut above the high street. Affordable fashion can come with its own handle on luxury, it's about knowing where to look and fortunately, you have a good eye.